Draggin Skin Racing Clutch (3/4" Bore)

The “Draggin Skin” clutch is for avid four cycle racers who want consistency in engagement along with ease and flexibility in tuning the clutch to fit their track. The engagement of the clutch can be varied from 2,200 to 6,500 rpm by varying spring combinations. A floating spring ring design and a phenolic resinbonded non-asbestos friction material with insulating properties utilized on the shoes minimizes heat transfer, enhancing the life of the springs.
Installation Instructions for Draggin Skin Clutch
Product Specs:
4-Cycle
Includes Purple Spring Set (Engagement = 3450 RPM)
3/4″ Bore
Bonded, non-asbestos resin linings
Trued Drum
7 and 10 gram weight kit to fine tune engagement
Run Inboard or Outboard with a Key Change
Additional springs and weight kits are available to change engagement from 2,800 to 6,500 RPMs
Trued drum is required for Draggin Skin clutch. Trued drums have an extra process to ensure best fitment for Draggin Skin clutches.
Drum option:
Drum selection must match the number to teeth on the drive sprocket.
See #35 Sprockets
See #219 Sprockets
*Note for all 219 drive sprockets use 13T+ drum
From the manufacturer:
Draggin Skin Clutch
Don’t change the set up until after you have put this clutch on your kart and have broken in the shoes to the drum. This clutch is set up with the brown springs and will engage at approximately 2,800 RPM consistently once the shoes have been radiused to fit the drum. Drive the kart for 15 minutes to “seat” the shoes, then verify the engagement. Avoid stop and go starts, break in the clutch before you race just like you would a new engine. Don’t try and see how hot you can get the shoes, drive normally and avoid brake torquing your engine. After you have radiused the shoes to fit the drum, THEN YOU CAN MAKE YOUR SPRING CHANGES.
You can use six (6), nine (9) or twelve (12) springs in your set up. The thing to remember is to do everything evenly, what you do on one shoe you have to do on the other two shoes. The easy way to change the springs is to lift the shoes, springs and spring ring out from the clutch to take the tension off the springs. Make your changes, then just drop the assembly over the sleeve of the clutch and pull the shoes out between the drive tangs. It is very simple and there is no need to use any kind of tool or needle nose pliers.
This clutch is more adjustable than any on the market and it is designed to be user friendly. There are so many different combinations that we cannot list them all. The weight kit gives you additional variables for a harder lock in, but because of the weight differential, you will have to use the next stronger spring. We offer two different weights: 7 or 10 grams. Once you find the combination for your track, it will be consistent for the season since there is minimal heat transfer to the springs.
The clutch can be inboard or outboard mounted with no changes needed. The bushing should be oiled or greased when you are through racing for the day. If the track is real dusty or if you just lubed your chain, it should be cleaned. Use 30 weight oil on your finger and just coat the bushing after you have cleaned out the drum. When you oil your chain, do it with the engine off and after you are done racing for the day. The clutch draws in air through the holes in the drum to keep the shoes cool. Any over spray of the oil from your chain is going to end up in the drum and on the shoes which will vary the engagement consistency until it burns off. DON’T OVER OIL THE BUSHING OR THE CHAIN before the race, wait until the end of the day. Very little oil is going to penetrate into the bushing or the chain, most of it will be spun off and it will effect the clutch performance.
Conventional Installation
Your Draggin Skin clutch can be set up with numerous spring combinations. However, tabs “A” must all have the same color spring. Tabs “B” can use a different color spring from those in tabs “A”, though the three springs in tab “B” should each be of the same color. Tabs “B” can also be left empty.